If you’ve been exploring the perfume world for a while, you’ve probably encountered the word aldehyde. And, if you like science, it may have piqued your interest. Aldehydes are closely associated with the iconic Chanel No. 5, and almost every modern perfume contains varying amounts of them.

Aldehydes were first used in perfumes in the early 20th century. The most commonly used aldehydes include methyl heptyne carbonyl (MHC), hexyl cinnamaldehyde (HCA), and benzaldehyde. Aldehydes are often combined with floral fragrances, especially to balance strong fragrances, such as white flowers. In addition, in modern perfumes, aldehydes are used to create a pleasant, clean smell and sometimes to create a metallic effect.

What is an aldehyde?

In chemistry, an aldehyde is an organic compound produced by partial oxidation and contains a carbonyl group (C=O). A carbon atom must be bound to at least one hydrogen atom (R-CH=O) to classify a compound as an aldehyde. You’ll find aldehydes in natural essences such as orange peel, rose, pine, cinnamon, and citronella. However, they can also be easily created in the lab.

Aldehydes in perfumes: What do they smell like?

Fatty aldehydes, aromatic aldehydes, and usually higher molecular weight aldehydes are all used in spices but have different structures. Each evokes a specific type of scent and is used accordingly for note profiles. So, to answer the lingering question in the air – what does aldehydes smell like? If you’ve ever heard a perfume described as shiny, fizzy, and electric, it’s likely to contain many aldehydes. The aldehyde smells distinctly soapy, almost waxy, and you can smell floral and citrusy notes. In addition, they amplify the sense of smell with which they are paired.

The legacy of aldehyde in perfumes

Chanel No. 5 was the first perfume to incorporate synthetic ingredients (specifically aldehydes), one of the most common myths in history. foug<s:1> Royale, designed by Paul Parquet for Houbigant in 1882, was the first modern perfume to feature synthetic compounds. In 1905, Louis Armingeat created Reve D ‘Or(Golden Dream), the first use of aldehydes in perfumes.

However, credit must be given where it is due. Chanel No. 5’s use of aldehydes changed how the perfume industry viewed them. When Ernest Beaux was making a perfume sample for Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, he had an idea. He added a lot more aldehydes than initially planned. Little did he know then that he had created three “fat” aldehydes, C10, C11, and C12, that would dominate the Western perfume industry for the next decade. Coco Chanel fell in love with the somewhat unnatural aroma of the Beaux recipe because she wanted the No. 5 perfume to smell like a woman, not a flower arrangement. After a while, even Chanel No. 22 was made with many “fat” aldehydes to maintain a similar essence.

Are aldehydes in perfume terrible for you?

Aldehydes in perfume are not harmful to humans. Suppose you buy perfume from a reputable brand. In that case, you can rest assured that you won’t face negative consequences for your love of aldehydes. When formulated with use in mind, contact with aldehydes is entirely safe.

Aldehydes are commonly used in spices.

Each fatty aldehyde has a unique smell, so here is a brief overview of the aldehydes that are widely used in niche and designer perfumes:

• C7—This heptyl aldehyde compound in sage has an herbaceous green aroma reminiscent of a tree-lined meadow.
• C8 – This octane compound has a fruity aroma and is found mainly in citrus oils. If you have to be specific, it smells like fresh oranges.
• C9—This nonyl aldehyde compound has a rose-colored fragrance with a hint of jasmine. Depending on how it is combined with the perfume, it can be warm and cozy or fresh and clean.
• C10 – This capric aldehyde compound immediately reminds you of an orange peel or a basket full of lemons, depending on its structure.
• C11 – This non-aldehyde compound, found naturally in coriander leaf oil, smells fresh and clean with a citrus flavor.
• C12—This dodecane compound, found in citrus essential oils, is widely used in perfumes because its odor signature changes depending on usage. Concentrated, it has a metallic feel, but diluted, it brings to mind soft flowers such as cloves and violets. It also easily slips into herb territory.
• C13—This three-tube compound will definitely remind you of grapefruit. It smells soapy, fresh, and waxy, with a strong citrus flavor that is comforting to most noses.
• C14—In Mitsouko, this undecane compound is technically a lactone, but it is often referred to as peach aldehyde because of its sweet and fruity taste.

Aromatic aldehydes are often complex, but you may easily recognize their smell once you are familiar with them. For example, Guerlain uses anisaldehyde (p-methoxy benzaldehyde) in apr L ‘to make hawthorn or potato leaves. Anisaldehyde is reminiscent of licorice, and benzaldehyde has the typical nutty smell of almonds. You may know that jasmine is a costly spice ingredient, depending on its origin. Aminocinnamaldehyde (ACA) and hexylcinnamaldehyde (HCA) are synthetic compounds that smell precisely like jasmine. For this reason, they are often used as substitutes.

Aldehydes are recommended

Aldehydes are the main components of perfumes because of their versatility and vitality. If you want to try aldehydes in addition to Chanel’s signature product, here are some suggestions:

• Yves Saint Laurent’s Left Bank (Rive Gauche)
• The Different Company’s Pure Eve
• The aspires of Lanvin
• A lazy Sunday morning by Maison Margiela
• L ‘Interdit in Givenchy
• Blanche by Byredo
• By Frederic Malle